Push/Walk-Behind Mower Blade Sharpening
Here is a table of the rates we charge to sharpen and balance your dull mower blade. We do charge for removing the blade from your mower and re-installing it after sharpening. Also, the more complicated blades that have a non-straight cutting edge (Multi-Level) are more work and take more time so we do charge extra for these.
Standard mower blade - off the mower
Standard mower blade - on the mower
Multi-Level mower blade - off the mower
Multi-Level mower blade - on the mower
It is hard to say how long a blade should last or how often to sharpen a blade. It depends on who is mowing, where mowing, which variety of grass, how wet or dry the grass, and how sandy the soil. Generally, for most normal green grass lawns, you should sharpen the blade after 25 hours of use which is at least once per year for most lawns that take 1 hour to 1.5 hours to mow. Hitting objects (toys, cans, sticks, small stones, dirt, sand) will dent or nick the cutting edge or round-over the tip.
Before sharpening the blade, make sure it is straight. Lay the blade on a flat surface to check. Never try to straighten a blade that is bent, and never weld a broken or cracked blade. Replace the blade with a new blade if it is worn.
The sharpen angle for most blades is 30 degrees. Only sharpen the top of the blade. Do not grind the bottom surface or a chisel shape will result. The lowest portion on the blade that contacts the grass must be the cutting edge or it will not cut the grass cleanly and excessive horsepower will be required.
After the blade has been sharpened, check the balance. This is best done using a blade balancer tool. A balanced blade will stay in a horizontal position on the balancer. A blade that is not balanced will settle to the heavy side. If the blade is not balanced, sharpen some metal off the cutting edge heavy end of the blade. DO NOT grind the bottom of the cutting edge. This will cause poor quality of cut and require more horsepower.